Given how much these can cost, we’d recommend against them.*Please note that this post may have affiliate links. The friction and longevity figures associated with these chain lubes often sound fantastical, that is precisely what they seem to be, with independent testing showing mixed results. There is a growing crop of ceramic and microparticle infused lubes that make lofty claims about reducing friction and wear, and often come with the price tags to match.
Once waxed, chains, chainrings, and cassettes only require hot water to be cleaned, no need for solvents or degreaser. If you’d like to go this route, coming in with a completely clean chain is critical, so this is where you’d need an ultrasonic parts cleaner. When everything dries, every moving part is lubricated by wax, and because it’s solid, dirt just doesn’t stick to it. The heat causes the molecules in the chain to expand, and the voids are filled with the liquefied wax. Wax emulsion, on the other hand, involves dropping your chain into a crockpot filled with melted wax. You’ll also need to make sure you leave the wax enough time to set before you ride. Before the initial application, you’ll need to make sure any factory grease or old lube has been removed. The downside to wax lubes is they take a bit of elbow grease to apply and maintain. Because the wax cures to a plastic state, it doesn’t attract much grit and can also support additives like Teflon or PTFE.
Wax lubes are made up of refined paraffin particles which are emulsified in a carrier fluid the liquid helps the particles get where the need to be and dries, leaving just the wax inside. Waxed based lubes are becoming extremely popular because they work well in both wet and dry conditions and for on and off-road applications. Rider beware, wet lube can also be extremely messy not only during the application process, but also should your chain come into contact with your hands, or the back of your leg. These will be long-lasting and stand up well to torrential downpours but also attract dirt like a dollop of honey in a sandstorm. Wet lubes are for riding in wet weather, and can be more akin to syrup and grease than oil. They typically run pretty clean, and if regularly reapplied, can offer decent performance, though a splash from a puddle can leave you with a squeaky arthritic chain.īut the mix of oils to transportation fluid usually tilts heavily towards the latter, meaning the majority of what’s inside the bottle vaporizes and isn’t lubricating your chain. These are very thin and are made from a mix of oils and some sort of transport fluid, which is designed to help the lubricant penetrate the pins and rollers and then evaporate. Dry lubeĪs the name suggests, dry lube us designed to be used in dry conditions. Here is a rundown of the different types of chain lube: 1. But, whatever you do decide on, please, for the love of all bikes, drivetrains, and the sanity of your local mechanic, do not use olive oil or baby oil! What to know about bike chain lubeįinding the right chain lube can feel a bit like trying to find the best saddle for you the lube that will perform the best for you will depend largely on where you ride, how much you ride, and how often you clean and or re-lube. It sounds like one of the best all-rounder bike chain lubes available, and the price reflects that, costing almost 10 times as much as Finish Line Wet. It claims to save five watts of power for up to 900km, and in dry conditions, the Graphenlube is claimed to last up to 1,800km on a single application, a claim that has been independently verified as truthful. It is a hydrocarbon (wax) based lube, which, as the name suggests, contains graphene, which according to AbsoluteBlack, exhibits extraordinary durability and low friction over a long period of time in both wet and dry conditions. AbsoluteBlack claims its Graphenlube is the gold standard, calling it the ‘world’s fastest and longest-lasting’ bike chain lube.